Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and trend designer most famous as the founder of the apparel brands Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s products were a mixture of his own innovations and design concepts he got from finding out military clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
three nineteen nineties
5 Product improvements 5.1 Four-course of printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.3 Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.Eight Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He became a graphic designer and worked in the promoting enterprise. His career in the style trade started in the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt collection that includes placed prints. He was the first to use new methods just like the four-colour process and silkscreen which are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the offer to design an entire Men’s collection and turned an equity associate in the corporate he would title ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Firm’).
During this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a creative philosophy fully based mostly on experimentation. The first innovation he could be chargeable for in the clothes business was garment dyeing, a course of that fully revolutionized the sector. It was primarily based upon the idea of different materials in finished garments reacting in another way to the same dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates attention-grabbing tone-on-tone Stone Island Outlet effects. This explicit dyeing method became typical for Osti’s C.P. Company. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new model alongside the present CP Company and CP Company Baby collections.
Ongoing analysis on ending strategies and supplies led to one more clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The first collection was made totally from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps utilized by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by means of stone washing. This new assortment was so successful that it offered out at each location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, but stayed on as president. He and his workforce devoted themselves to product development and communication methods for the company. In 1985, he turned the editor of CP Magazine, an additional-massive format catalog/journal that was sold at newspaper stands. It featured photographs of every garment in the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. way of life completely. A circulation of forty,000 copies per collection proved that this unusual advertising software was certainly efficient. It started a pattern that will later be adopted by many different corporations within the business.
1987 was an important yr in Osti’s career. He invented and offered Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a thin, rubber coating. The rubber made the materials waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new feel and look to the garments. In the same yr Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. Today all mills use this procedure for processing woolen textiles, the same course of Osti invented in 1987.
The year also saw the beginning of the shade altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological analysis to create this new fabric which changed colour by temperature variations. That same yr, his fixed commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invitation to represent the Italian clothes trade at an occasion commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own fifteenth year within the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held contained in the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a new technique of communication with the public by way of the CP Firm sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The company also showed its support of the Rainforest Foundation, the inspiration spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose goal was to boost worldwide awareness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP store in New York’s historical Flatiron Building, plus the launch of yet one more iconic garment within the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an revolutionary materials, which was the fruit of technological research conducted in Japan. The material mixed waterproof fabric with a very skinny layer of glass microspheres, which mirrored even the weakest gentle sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new model was characterized by one other exclusive material, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, might be used with uncooked edge stitching. The following yr, Osti founded Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that will reap the advantages of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years value of formal and technical innovations. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti began a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a group of picture-defining garments.
Simply two years later in 1998, a brand new company was founded to supply and distribute the OM Challenge model, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothing would even be characterized by the use of revolutionary fabrics:
– Electric-j – a highly resistant materials fabricated from polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton component while its other component
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Mag Defender – a canvas made of polyester and carbon fibers whose highly resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “city armor” featuring a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it extremely resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti began the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a new line of technical pants referred to as Gear for Legs. Of the technical supplies used on this collection, a particular mix of Kevlar stood out specifically; its increased softness and functionality made it appropriate to its software in garment production.
Amongst Osti’s last initiatives was the ICD line. Created in 2000 because of a collaboration with Levi’s, it supplied an enormous array of high efficiency technical outerwear. This collection was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, thanks to an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came equipped with a cellphone, mp3 player, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first industrial instance of wearable know-how.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on at the moment via Ed Lehan. Additionally the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which includes 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from approximately 300 textile mills and garment ending firms from world wide.
Four-course of printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-based mostly company commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, something he had never executed before. On the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and artistic movements of the time and profoundly aware of the adjustments going down in society. At the time of his first forays into the world of style, Osti’s background in promoting led him to make use of his graphics know-how as a place to begin for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the finished end result, techniques like silkscreen, positioned prints, four-process printing, photocopy, and so forth. It was the primary time anything like that was achieved in Italy. I do not forget that I had to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself earlier than convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I discovered that two totally different supplies absorbed and reacted differently to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results.” This is the basis of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized your entire trade on the time, each because of the unusual look it produced and because of the numerous lower in prices it represented.
Primary characteristics: every garment is dyed, as a substitute of the supplies they were manufactured from. Attention-grabbing ‘tone-on-tone’ effects, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this particular course of, which was originally used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool till he refined the procedure by way of analysis and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the trade.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, grew to become extremely popular within the textile industry. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a brand new look and texture, permitting them to drape and fall differently. The particular rubber coating not only enhanced their pure characteristics, but also grants increased performance, reminiscent of resistance to water and permits them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Important characteristics: basic supplies seemed renewed and responded in a new solution to put on; additionally they grew to become extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket made from a revolutionary materials that changes colour with temperature variations as a consequence of its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket can be extremely waterproof and windproof.
Predominant characteristics: jacket modifications colour by temperature variation. *e.g., pink to grey)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first presented in the LEFT HAND assortment and is made of pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The pressing is a traditional technique, originally used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin hand and wonderful breath ability.
Predominant characteristics: pure deerskin look, but warmer feel.
This material was also used within the LEFT HAND assortment. Its major characteristics are total resistance to water and wear and up to 80% protection from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time within the F/W 1996 assortment by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this mixture of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Baby (1978-ninety three)