Type Profile: Ollie Evans & Stone Island
These diehard football followers had a tendency to hooliganism, and the flashy designer brands from Europe offered them an anonymity that their team’s shirts didn’t. Stoney became related to the violence, contributing to a decline in its reputation. “Its (reputation) ebbs and flows. There’s a quote in 24 Hour Occasion Folks about Tony Wilson saying that all the pieces has like an up cycle and a down cycle, and one thing that’s been going round for 35 years has its ups and downs. I believe there’s undoubtedly a period within the early to mid ‘90s when it first came over to the UK and it was new and massive. Then it acquired tarnished by a lot by fakes and a bad repute due to who was wearing it.” Years later, the model has shaken off the violent connotations, with everybody from fashion industry insiders to rappers now sporting it. The place once it triggered division, now it unites.
“When the casuals were carrying it within the late ‘80s, that’s when acid home came alongside, and it form of dissolved a variety of the violence that was going on within the (football) terraces, ‘cuz they all obtained into ecstasy and the rave scene.” Explains Evans. “What rave did to the UK was usher in and unite a lot of various people that wouldn’t have essentially partied and shared platforms together, and jungle brought in a brand new black audience to the rave scene, so the people that have been involved in these occasions have been mixing. So young youngsters, urban youngsters, young youngsters from the countryside, would see these labels and it became a common language . . . It’s like a trickle-down effect. It’s gone from Italy to informal culture to rave culture to grime to then streetwear and now it’s in fashion and luxury once Mid more. There’s a lot evolution and change there and it’s a constant progression.” As a brand, Stone Island is without doubt one of the distinctive few that has wielded the power to bring people from disparate backgrounds collectively. It’s even doing it now. “It’s stone island two tone beanie enormous in America, partly due to the Supreme collaboration. It’s good that it’s crossed over from one country into another and that skate tradition has adopted it, that’s nice.”
Alongside the progression, Stone Island has stayed true to their roots, and that’s partially why they’ve had such longevity. “I suppose the branding is simply so robust, that compass patch that they’ve had right from the start – it’s like a gang and also you want to be part of it.” The signature of the model has been unwavering and perhaps extra influential than many people realise. There have been suggestions from business critics that Osti’s designs influenced the likes of Martin Margiela, and that the oversized silhouettes designed by Osti (Ollie reveals me a size small jacket from the ‘80s and it’s big) have influenced Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia. “I went to art school and I’m fortunate sufficient to know people on the design teams of the most important manufacturers on this planet, and that i sell to plenty of other brands which can be researching, and you can guarantee that each major vogue house in the world has a bit of Massimo Osti Stone Island in their archive.” Two books have been revealed on the subject, and Osti’s private collection was just lately exhibited within the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane. Stone Island’s success is predicated upon the truth that they never bow to tendencies, and have stayed true to an aesthetic that’s defined by a number of guiding ideas – analysis, experimentation, perform and use. Follow the compass.