Clothing, Century, Women, Men, Type, New, Body, Historical past, Assortment
Bober, Joanna, “C.P. Firm’s City of Ladies,” in WWD, 29September 1994.
Socha, Miles, “C.P. Company is Vacating Flatiron Location,” in DNR, 22 August 1996.
Lohrer, Robert, “C.P. Relaunches Sportswear with a Twist,” in DNR, 2 February 1998.
Fallon, James, “C.P. Company to Open Freestanding London Store,” in DNR, 17 November 1999.
Ilari, Allessandra, “Italian Manufacturers Adjusting Product to Swimsuit American Tastes,” in DNR, three January 2000.
Smith, Claire, “Pret-a-Voyager: Novelty Journey Fashion,” available on-line at Virgin.web, www.Virgin.internet , 19 December 2000.
Massimo Osti, long synonymous with C.P. Company, represented what C.P. Firm stood for. He chose to stay and work in his native Bologna, Italy, a university city populated by a younger, international set. C.P. Company’s headquarters is situated within the Emilia-Romagna area of Italy, renowned for its delicacies and local produce. As such, it—and Massimo Osti—were far removed from the hustle and bustle of Milan.
Whereas Italian fashion designers have a propensity for generating myths around their collections, Osti’s strategy was in stark contrast to this prevailing trend. Osti conjured up no myths and was happy with it. He customary his assortment not solely from an aesthetic standpoint however, first and foremost, from a useful one. Osti stuck close to his roots, and lived an understated way of life. In contrast to some of his higher-known counterparts, he was never within the limelight. He didn’t hold fashion reveals, and his catalogues highlighted only clothes, with no glamorous models or exotic areas and no fancy studio lighting.
Osti was in opposition to artifice in any kind; he did not consider himself to be a real designer, merely occupied with mastering the technical problem of his line—specifically, the fabrics and finishes. He confirmed a new line twice a yr but by no means referred to his output as a set; moderately, they were “pieces.” There was by no means any uniting theme or story within the C.P. Company line.
The designer’s working uniform consisted of a navy C.P. silk shirt and a pair of navy Stone Island jeans, with perhaps a navy tie. Osti loved to sail and even had a soccer discipline on his property. Therefore, as a sportsman, he understood the necessity for efficiency sportswear. All his woven fabrics for C.P. Company had been garment-washed, and he began utilizing this course of long before it was the trend in the males’s sportswear business. He was also one among the first to make use of water-repellent coatings on his fabrics, a course of now standard on outerwear.
What would in any other case be a delicate item—such as a burlap linen raincoat—would be coated with polyurethane to make it virtually indestructible. An indigo denim shirt would be garment-bleached and enzyme-washed to have the texture of silk. Such was the essence of Osti’s philosophy, if he had been willing to articulate one: to take positive, even luxury fabrics, and to deal with them in such a means that they might be worn nonchalantly—or to take widespread fabrics and provides them a luxury end.
C.P. Company has been the essence of casual elegance and rugged versatility. It’s trendy, by no means trendy, best for the man with good style, a modicum of type, and a love of the finer things in life. Males who put on C.P. Company are averse to displaying designer labels, preferring as an alternative to seem well dressed in an unself-acutely aware way. They also have an mental bent and are usually not impressed with flashy issues. In other words, C.P. Firm’s clients were very very similar to Osti, who selected the Flatiron Constructing as the placement for the company’s New York store not solely because of its architectural and historic significance, however because it was slightly off the overwhelmed path, setting C.P. Firm apart from the pack.
For over 20 years, Osti did for males’s sportswear what perhaps Balenciaga did for girls’s couture. He honed it nearly to a science, changing into the standard towards which many different sportswear companies measured themselves. There’s a robust chance that any novelty in ending or dyeing one could encounter within the men’s market has been tested—and in all probability developed—first by Osti. He was as thorough as they are available the world of fabric analysis, having at his disposal an archive of tens of thousands of objects of used clothes, what he referred to as his “inspirational muse,” and the “conscience” of the past. He deeply revered the styles of the previous and strove to excellent them for the long run. Though his fabrics were novel, his silhouettes were persistently traditional, with an interesting lived-in high quality.
For many years, the C.P. Company label carried the slogan “Ideas from Massimo Osti,” and that in itself spoke volumes in regards to the pragmatic method of the road’s designer. But C.P. Firm underwent main modifications in each possession and design management at the tip of the 20th century. Each the company and its sister brand, Stone Island, previously owned by the Italian apparel powerhouse GFT, were bought in 1993 by Carlo and Christina Rivetti, who operated the manufacturers by means of their Sportswear Firm of Italy. By the mid-nineteen nineties, founder Massimo Osti had moved on to other endeavors, and the designer Moreno Ferrari was established in his place. Despite these changes, the C.P. Company brand retained its focus on technical innovation, particularly in the event of new supplies, and trend designs followed the dictates of the fabric.
In the mid-1990s, the corporate publicized its plans for a broad retail enlargement, spearheaded by its Flatiron district store in New York. Through the years, it honed its expectations, opening flagship shops only in its two main markets, the UK (London) and Italy (Milan), along with a stone island sunglasses sale smaller store in St. Tropez, France. The brands were additionally featured in freestanding shops in countries akin to Japan and Korea. The brand new York outlet was shuttered in 1996. Although C.P. Firm has periodically talked of opening another retailer in New York, it had not yet come to move as of 2001.
The agency’s retail spaces characteristic each C.P. Company and Stone Island branded sportswear items for males as well as C.P.’s ladies’s sportswear vary. As of 2000, the company offered by means of a total of 420 retail doors worldwide, together with Bloomingdale’s and Barneys New York based on the Each day News Report in January 2000.
Ferrari became Osti’s focus, emphasizing durability and utilitarianism over style fads. In his fall-winter 1998/1999 collection, he reinvigorated some of the characteristics that had helped boost the model’s sales within the 1980s, notably a sequence of blousons designed for cautious urban customers. As DNR described the road in February 1998, it included one merchandise (known as “Metropolis”) with an antismog mask, computer, cell phone, and pockets for paperwork; another (“Life”) with a noiseproof headset; and a third (“Munch”) with a personal security alarm. The last was impressed by Edouard Munch’s well-known painting, The Scream.
The 12 months 1998 also introduced the introduction of fabrics composed of copper, steel, carbon, and titanium initially intended to provide a futuristic slant to the garments. The Italian journal Interni noted in June 2001 that these materials additionally supplied efficiency advantages and a distinctive feel and look (gentle-reflective, movement-highlighting, crumpled-informal vintage) making them an integral part of the gathering immediately.
For the 2001 season, C.P. Firm’s reputation for innovation moved to the foreground with its Transformables line, consisting of inflatable items that change nearly instantaneously from wearable objects into furnishings. Packaged with an air compressor that could be plugged right into a car’s lighter, the line included jackets that turn out to be armchairs, mattress-tent combos, sleeping bags, hammocks, and inflatable seats, representing the last word in handy and minimalist journey gear.