Stone Island: How The Model Has Advanced – Woodhouse Clothes
Stone Island’s model ethos has been set in stone because the 1980s, however the label’s dedication to analysis means that their collection is always contemporary and thrilling. With a devoted international following and a again catalogue of forty,000 distinctive garments, Stone Island is in a league of its personal.
When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was requested why Stone Island’s model has remained so strong he stated:
“Stone Island has all the time remained true to itself, with out concessions. And so we have been capable of rejuvenate our target market of shoppers; we reach out each to our historic clients, these who have faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but also to the youthful crowd, to the new generations of today.”
While other manufacturers have branched out to incorporate different types or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained targeted, with just the label’s persevering with analysis into fabrics and dyes pushing the brand forward.
Stone Island Culture
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-delicate Fabric
If you look again on the last thirty years, the brand began with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-sensitive fabrics and Kevlar designs. It could be arduous to foretell what comes next and that’s what makes the brand so thrilling to follow.
The energy of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable type of their clothes, has created a cult following – together with celebrities resembling Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The brand has additionally been associated with soccer fans – and sometimes soccer hooliganism – but the label has been quick to dissociate itself from the latter.
Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti offers fans a video tour around Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in 90 – 140 levels and ‘recipes’ are adopted to create every shade of colour.
However, to most people, Stone Island’s dyeing facility seems extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of just about each color conceivable, and with impressive equipment and weighty files of formulas, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a spot for experimentation.
And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest factor to a renaissance painter’s workshop within the 21st century.
Texture and colour are the place to begin for every jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. Some of their dyeing techniques could cause as much as 50% shrinkage, so getting the design proper is a complicated process.
Every garment is made from a selection of different fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a special method – both in how they absorb colour or shrink throughout the method. Every jacket is sort of a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you may walk through the historical past of their experimentation.
Over Thirty Years of Design
In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s name got here from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst hundreds of words, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ had been the mostly occurring, and so the model was born.
The first assortment was the results of analysis right into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-treated to be pink on one facet and blue on the other.
1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the brand. By 1984, the gathering had advanced to include jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.
It was also in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was introduced, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of military origin, with polyurethane coating.
1987 – 1988
Through research into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Gentle, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The impact was a thick and glazed look.
1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the ground-breaking Ice Jacket. With the development of a heat-sensitive fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which modified colour with the temperature.
From yellow to blue and from inexperienced to white, the Ice Jacket was a actually futuristic idea. Stone Island developed the design additional to create patterned jackets which lost their sample in the cold, changing into icy white with freezing temperatures.
Next, Stone Island developed a extremely reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow by means of a coating of 1000’s of micro glass spheres. Impressed by work safety jackets, this assortment was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even in a position to reflect light from very weak sources.
1993 – 1996
This was a time of great change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the crew and pushed the research forward.
With an injection of recent ideas, the following few years saw a huge variety of innovative fabrics getting into the color Lab. The first was Formulation Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.
Extensive research additionally created Oltre, a superb nylon fabric with an extremely-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998
The analysis continued at a relentless pace, and in 1997, Stone Island designers applied a Reverse Color Process method on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then light utilizing a corrosion technique to be later over-dyed.
Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, additionally grew to become a part of the collection throughout these years.
1999 – 2001
At the flip of the millennium, the Stone Island design group had been incredibly busy. Launching a huge quantity of new fabrics and designs in simply two years, including the Pure Metallic Shell Silver and Pure Metallic Shell Bronze (as proven above). These parkas have been created with both a hundred% stainless steel or a hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.
Stone Island’s designers next moved onto a cloth which is 5 instances stronger than the same weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island found a technique to dye this seemingly unimaginable materials by way of including a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.
Initially designed for use on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island began to make use of silver spray on their assortment of effective polyester jackets, adding a vacuum seal of a hundred% stainless seal.
The brand additionally launched their Ventile vary, utilizing a navy textile which was 100% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls in the Second World Battle.
In 2002, the vary continued to increase, with jackets engineered to look flat with a collection of folds and seams adding detail.
Another success story from this year was the sunshine Jacket. Continued analysis perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that gentle up with blue gentle.
The design staff additionally experimented with various layers of meshes, which revealed the interior development of the jacket.
2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Procedure to create extraordinarily dense supplies, which are boiled at 130 levels and then shrink by up to 50%.
Mussoal Gommata was also launched, developed by laminating ultra-mild cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane film.
2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was launched, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed below strain at 130 levels.
Creating their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.
Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his sneakers as Inventive Director. And in the identical 12 months, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Collection.
2009 – 2011
Creating on their previous heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its sample in the chilly.
The staff additionally developed a new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-sensitive quartz and graphite.
2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a lightweight cotton muslin, which was handled with coloured resins earlier than the material was laminated to supply a prism-impact polyurethane film. The fabric can then be double-dyed to create a variety of vibrant colours.
Subsequent, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Treatment, a process which creates a garment that’s highly water-repellent and environmentally pleasant.
2012 marked the 30th anniversary of the brand and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a significant exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments have been created to reflect the historical past of Stone Island, including a re-edition of Tela Stella.
Thirty years’ of research and forty,000 garments later, their present A/W stone island junior age 15 collection displays this rich historical past of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the model has to offer this yr.
Garment Dyed Crinkle Reps NY
What’s next for the Model
With a constant drive in the direction of creating new colours and materials, Stone Island is a brand always able to surprise. When requested what the future holds, Carlo Rivetti mentioned:
“We get impressed by people, architecture and design. At present we’re presently learning some supplies used in the automotive industry. Through the Olympics, the outfits the athletes wear are very technical, which can also be inspirational.