Aphrodite2017 Menswear Blog – Half 2
The Stone Island brand identify has many different connotations for many alternative people; for some, it is inextricably linked with football tradition, in particular the informal motion — both in a constructive or a adverse sense; for others, it has change into related to the grime music scene, and has extended its reach beyond the terraces and onto the streets. However at the beginning, that iconic Compass badge in your sleeve is a symbol of high quality, innovation and elegance — the rules on which the model as we know it was based back in 1982.
Stone Island Spring/Summer 1983 Catalogue
Stone Island owner Carlo Rivetti is from a household with long ties to the clothes industry. By the 1980s, although, he had grown restless within the world of formalwear, stone island junior age 14 jacket and sought to diversify into one thing he discovered extra appealing: sportswear. He and his sister established a agency — the creatively-named Sportswear Firm — and scoured Italy in search of firms that shared their imaginative and prescient for progressive informal clothing, where they found (and promptly acquired) CP Firm. Stone Island itself, however, was conceived almost by accident: Massimo Osti — founder and designer for CP Company, and family title for those in the know about technical sportswear — had conceived a new fabric dubbed Tela Stella, a heavyweight, oilskin-like materials impregnated with different pigments on either facet, and was decided to make something out of it. He couldn’t discover a method to make it fit within CP Company’s assortment, nevertheless, and so decided to craft a small assortment of just seven jackets. In protecting with the army and nautical inspiration behind the Tela Stella fabric, he selected a compass because the emblem for his new diffusion line: Stone Island was born.
From the Terraces to the Streets: Stone Island and Streetwear
Moving forward from this inauspicious begin, Osti pushed forward with fabric innovation, endlessly researching new textiles and ways to implement them, coming up with often outlandish, off the wall fabrics that no-one else had even considered: heat-reactive weaves; nylon fabric laminated with lots of of glass beads to change the color in numerous angles; earth-dyed, acid-corroded canvas. This over-the-prime strategy, along with the masculine, army styling of the brand’s offerings was a large part of ‘Stoney’s’ attraction to the soccer casual crowd: followers travelling abroad for away and worldwide games had been always looking out for brand new and thrilling garments to deliver house and showcase. Stone Island, with the one-off and unique nature of lots of Osti’s fabrics, fit completely into this tradition of one-upmanship, and the brand’s recognition was cemented from then on.
Because of this association with the hyper-masculine world of soccer casuals, the brand’s enduring legacy has been as a logo of manliness. In more recent years, it has been adopted by inside-metropolis kids in the UK as a status symbol, and in turn turned related to the grime music scene. Buoyed up by excessive-profile collaborations with streetwear giants Supreme and Nike, the brand’s enchantment has diversified past connoisseurs and collectors, particularly throughout the Atlantic. Urban music superstars like Drake, The Weeknd and Travis Scott have all embraced the ‘Stoney’ look of late, skyrocketing interest in a brand that was previously alien to these not dwelling in Europe, and launching its attraction to a whole new technology of streetwear followers.
Persevering with Innovation: Stone Island Fabrics
Today, removed from being helmed by a single visionary like Massimo Osti or later designer Paul Harvey, Carlo Rivetti has assembled a group of designers to raised embrace its newfound worldwide reputation and the variety of its fanbase, stating “It [is] essential to be multicultural so as to be truly contemporary … I felt that in this period it is this attainable to face all points of a world solely with a number of minds and a number of other visions.”
Stone Island Nylon Metallic
This ethos has lead to the continuation of the innovation and research that Massimo Osti started all those years ago, and Stone Island holds its popularity for utilizing unusual and technologically-superior fabrics and finishes. Some latest examples:
David-TC: Japanese polyester/polyamide fabric with star-formed thread cores is dyed underneath excessive strain and temperatures (130C), drastically altering the composition and handle of the fabric, making a feeling that’s each luxurious and technical. During the process, weatherproof treatments are impregnated into the fabric, further enhancing its practical operate.
Nylon Metallic: We’ve written about this one earlier than: nylon fibres with an irregular structure are woven as grey weft and white, able to dye warp threads, and bear an elaborate double-dyeing course of to provide a fabric that has an iridescent sheen in different lighting situations. This can produce a refined three-dimensional impact, or be used with vivid, contrasting colours to offer some fairly wild results.
Tank Shield: Crafted from matte polyester fabric, the whole jacket is first assembled and then internally laminated with overlapping panels of a weatherproof, breathable membrane, giving superior weather resistance and a near-seamless look.
This is just a tiny fraction of the scope of the brand’s imaginative and prescient: the brand’s personal historic archive consists of over 7000 items, while their analysis archive is larger still, at over forty,000 objects of vintage sportswear and militaria.
Stone Island Badges
Apart from the high-finish fabrics and construction, maybe a very powerful factor of a Stone Island product is the removable badge, usually discovered on the left side of the garment, with the Marina assortment breaking the mould and not that includes the badge in any respect, as an alternative opting for bold text printing. There are a variety of various variations of the badge which denote totally different facets of the brand. The usual, mostly recognised badge is the yellow and inexperienced compass rose badge (above left). Regardless of switching from a green border to a black one, the classic badge has remained unchanged for the reason that brand’s inception, and is a tribute to both the army inspiration of the model and the sense of journey and exploration driving Osti’s research.
There are numerous monochromatic badges (above centre) that have been initially used for what the brand dubbed Ghost Items: with totally tonal designs in quite a lot of colours, together with black, pink and white, they were conceived as a type of fashionable camouflage, allowing the wearer to mix in whereas still preserving the unmistakeable Stone Island aesthetic. Extra not too long ago, the tonal black badge has been used to indicate pieces from the Shadow Challenge diffusion line: combining Stone Island’s technical fabric experience with directional, futuristic designs from ACRONYM’s Errolson Flynn.
The White Compass badge (above right) is seen on limited version pieces, typically often called ‘Champagne Pieces’ due to the color of Stone Island Uk the badge. These jackets usually use much more revolutionary fabrics and building that can solely be created in small quantities, and are sometimes at the next value point to the conventional line, as a result of limited nature of their production. Of course, the flipside of this restricted facet is that the pieces turn out to be collectors gadgets in years to return, holding their worth for lots longer than others, if not rising it.
Celebrities Sporting Stone Island
Drake with Stone Island proprietor Carlo Rivetti
The Weeknd in Supreme x Stone Island
As mentioned above, Stone Island has been spotted on increasingly celebrities not too long ago. One of many more excessive-profile representatives of the brand has been music superstar Drake, who seems to put on the model almost completely as of late, even going as far as to have customized pieces made for his Boy Meets World tour. Drizzy is joined in his love for Stoney by fellow Canadian star The Weeknd, who was just lately spotted carrying items from the Supreme x Stone Island collaboration (for extra streetwear kudos), as well as rap mainstays Kanye West and Travis Scott.
Jason Statham in Stone Island
Again over in Blighty, grime artists are often spotted sporting the Compass, including Tinie Tempah and Skepta, while Hollywood hardman Jason Statham is one other of the brand’s high profile fans.
Stone Island Headquarters Tour Video
In this unique video, Carlo Rivetti opens the door to the Stone Island empire and permits the public a sneak peek on the research and experimentation that goes on behind the scenes. It presents a fascinating glance into how the model operates behind closed doors.