Stone Island’s Heat Reactive Jacket
Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and trend designer most famous because the founder of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s products had been a mix of his personal innovations and design ideas he received from learning army clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product innovations 5.1 4-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.8 Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He turned a graphic designer and worked within the promoting enterprise. His career within the style trade began within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt collection that includes placed prints. He was the first to use new methods like the 4-shade course of and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the supply to design a whole Men’s assortment and became an fairness accomplice in the corporate he would identify ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Firm’).
Throughout this period, Osti laid the foundations for a inventive philosophy solely primarily based on experimentation. The primary innovation he could be answerable for in the clothes industry was garment dyeing, a process that utterly revolutionized the sphere. It was primarily based upon the stone island jacket white idea of different materials in completed garments reacting in a different way to the identical dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates fascinating tone-on-tone effects. This specific dyeing approach became typical for Osti’s C.P. Company. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a brand new brand alongside the prevailing CP Firm and CP Company Child collections.
Ongoing analysis on finishing methods and materials led to yet another clothing line in 1982: Stone Island. The first assortment was made completely from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained through stone washing. This new assortment was so successful that it sold out at each location within 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his group devoted themselves to product development and communication strategies for the corporate. In 1985, he turned the editor of CP Journal, an extra-massive format catalog/magazine that was bought at newspaper stands. It featured pictures of each garment in the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. way of life completely. A circulation of forty,000 copies per collection proved that this unusual advertising software was certainly effective. It began a trend that would later be followed by many different companies within the industry.
1987 was an important 12 months in Osti’s career. He invented and offered Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new look and feel to the garments. In the same yr Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. As we speak all mills use this procedure for processing woolen textiles, the same process Osti invented in 1987.
The 12 months additionally saw the delivery of the colour changing Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-art technological analysis to create this new fabric which changed colour by temperature variations. That same 12 months, his constant commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invitation to symbolize the Italian clothing business at an event commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own fifteenth year within the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held inside the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a new technique of communication with the general public by means of the CP Company sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The corporate also confirmed its assist of the Rainforest Foundation, the muse spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose function was to boost worldwide consciousness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP store in New York’s historical Flatiron Constructing, plus the launch of yet one more iconic garment throughout the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an modern materials, which was the fruit of technological research carried out in Japan. The fabric combined waterproof fabric with a very thin layer of glass microspheres, which mirrored even the weakest mild sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new model was characterized by another unique material, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, might be used with raw edge stitching. The next 12 months, Osti founded Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that would reap the benefits of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ price of formal and technical improvements. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti started a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a set of image-defining garments.
Just two years later in 1998, a new firm was founded to provide and distribute the OM Venture model, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothes would even be characterized by the use of revolutionary fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant material product of polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton part while its different component
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Magazine Defender – a canvas manufactured from polyester and carbon fibers whose extremely resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “urban armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it highly resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti started the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a new line of technical pants known as Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used on this collection, a particular blend of Kevlar stood out particularly; its increased softness and functionality made it applicable to its utility in garment manufacturing.
Amongst Osti’s last initiatives was the ICD line. Created in 2000 due to a collaboration with Levi’s, it offered an unlimited array of high efficiency technical outerwear. This assortment was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, thanks to an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which got here equipped with a mobile phone, mp3 player, and accompanying headphones and microphone which have been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first industrial instance of wearable expertise.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on as we speak through Ed Lehan. Also the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which incorporates 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment finishing corporations from all over the world.
Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-primarily based firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, something he had never carried out before. On the age of 25, Osti was in shut contact with the social and inventive movements of the time and profoundly aware of the modifications going down in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of style, Osti’s background in promoting led him to use his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed result, techniques like silkscreen, placed prints, 4-process printing, photocopy, etc. It was the first time something like that was finished in Italy. I keep in mind that I had to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself earlier than convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I discovered that two totally different materials absorbed and reacted differently to the dye when dyed simultaneously, thereby creating interesting ‘tone-on-tone’ effects.” This is the idea of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized your complete industry on the time, both due to the unusual look it produced and because of the significant decrease in prices it represented.
Important traits: each garment is dyed, instead of the materials they have been made from. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this special course of, which was originally used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the process by research and tailored it specifically to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the trade.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These materials, created by Osti, turned very fashionable in the textile industry. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a brand new look and texture, permitting them to drape and fall otherwise. The special rubber coating not only enhanced their natural characteristics, but in addition grants increased performance, akin to resistance to water and allows them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Primary traits: traditional materials looked renewed and responded in a new strategy to wear; additionally they became more weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket product of a revolutionary materials that adjustments color with temperature variations on account of its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” can also be highly waterproof and windproof.
Important traits: jacket adjustments color by temperature variation. *e.g, pink to grey)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first offered within the LEFT HAND collection and is product of pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a traditional method, initially used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and glorious breath means.
Primary characteristics: pure deerskin look, however hotter feel.
This materials was also used within the LEFT HAND collection. Its principal traits are total resistance to water and wear and as much as 80% protection from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time in the F/W 1996 assortment by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this mixture of wool and nylon jersey is put on-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Baby (1978-ninety three)
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