Visiting North Korea, The Hermit Kingdom
It’s been almost 60 years since the tip of the Korean Struggle, and for most of that point Individuals had been prohibited from visiting North Korea by its authorities. For many years, I canvassed any contact I may ferret about securing visitation, but all for naught.
Until this 12 months.
I rendezvous with 23 mates in Beijing and the primary indication that we’re about to fall off the map is when a plastic bag is circulated on the airport before we board the Air Koryo flight. We deposit our cell telephones and books about our vacation spot, which are not allowed in the DPRK. We are, however, permitted to carry cameras (with lenses lower than 200 mms), laptops, Kindles and iPads, so long as they don’t have activated GPS. Credit score playing cards can’t be used for internet entry, or to purchase something. Even with money, there isn’t a public web access in-country. We’re abandoning ourselves to the journey.
On board the Russian-constructed Tupolev Tu-204 instead of Muzak we’re soothed by the national anthem, the newspaper distributed is the Pyongyang Instances (in English), and on the video monitors are dramatic recreations of World Struggle II, as well as a vacationer video that evokes Disney documentaries from the 1950s. Immigration and customs are simple, quicker than most first-world airports, and they do not stamp our passports, so you simply need to take my word that we were there.
We’re greeted by guides Mr. Lee and Miss Lee (no relation), who usher us onto a Chinese made luxury bus called King Long, the place we roll down spotless additional-large streets by willow bushes and tall apartment buildings, past heroic posters and pictures of Kim Il-sung, the nation’s founding chief, and his son Kim Jong-il, who died in December 2011, leaving his third son, 29-12 months-old Kim Jong-un in cost. We drive through the Arch of Triumph (larger than the Paris model), and into downtown Pyongyang, the capital. Along the best way Mr. Lee, shares, in enunciation often untidy, some info…the nation has 24 million folks; Three million within the capital. It is 80% coated by mountains. From 1905-1945 it was brutally occupied by the Japanese. The Korean Conflict (identified because the Fatherland Liberation Conflict by the DPRK) lasted from 1950-53, and during that time there have been four hundred,000 folks in Pyongyang, and the Americans dropped four hundred,000 bombs on the city.
We cross a bridge to an island within the Taedong River, and pull as much as the forty seven-story Yanggakdo International Lodge, with 1000 rooms, a revolving restaurant on high, a foyer bar with Taedonggang, a very good beer, and room tv with 5 channels of North Korean programming, and one featuring the BBC.
As the day bleeds to evening we head to the Rŭngrado May First Stadium, largest on this planet by capability. We park by a Niagara-sized dancing coloured fountain to which Steve Wynn may only aspire, stroll previous a line of Mercedes, BMWs, and Hummers, up the steps to prime seats (where Madeleine Albright once sat) on the Arirang Mass Video games. The Games (there isn’t a competition, simply spectacle) are a jaw-dropping ninety-minute gymnastic extravaganza, with meticulously choreographed dancers, acrobats, trapeze artists, big puppets, and big mosaic footage created by more than 30,000 sharply disciplined school children holding up colored playing cards, as though in bleachers at the world’s biggest soccer recreation. The London Guardian calls the Mass Video games “the greatest, strangest, most awe-inspiring political spectacle on earth.”
The Guinness Book says there is nothing like it within the universe. One hundred thousand performers in each candy colour of the spectrum cavort, whirl, leap and caper in completely choreographed unison. A thousand Cirque du Soleils. Ten thousand Busby Berkeleys. It all makes the opening ceremonies of the Beijing Olympics look like the opening of the London Olympics. Finally, we pour from the stadium, past the distributors stone island for cheap promoting posters, DVDs and memorabilia, exhausted and in overstimulated wonderment.
As the solar finds us the morning next we head again to the airport, during the world’s quietest rush hour. One estimate is there are fewer than 30,000 vehicles in the whole of the country. We pass seven vehicles, several hundred single-gear bicycles, and perhaps a thousand pedestrians, hunched forward as though carrying invisible sacks, strolling the edges of the streets. There are not any fat people in this parade…all look fit, clear and wholesome.
There is no business air service to the place we’re headed (and no Lonely Planet Information), so we’ve got chartered an Antonov 24, during which the hostess levels her epicanthic eyes and shares she wants to apply her English with us. Good thing, too, as I notice the signal on the Emergency Exit: “In case of stepped out of cabin, attract handle.”
Ninety minutes later we land at Samjiyon, close to the “sacred mountain of the revolution,” Mt. Paektu. At 8898 ft, it’s Korea’s highest peak, and legend has it’s the place Korea’s first founder, the mythical Tangun, is alleged to have descended 5,000 years in the past.
The drive from the airstrip to the bottom of the mountain is an ecologist’s dream, pre-industrial, rice fields cultivated by hand, lush, inexperienced landscapes, clear streams, and unlogged forests of white birches. As we rise in elevation, the timber shrink into the soil, till we’re in a moonscape, slopes of stones like discolored bone, the flanks of the stirring volcano, Paektu (white topped mountain). This is the sublime hill, probably the most celebrated in North Korea, and we chevron to the summit in our Chinese bus. From the caldera rim we will look down to a gorgeous blue crater lake, a sapphire within the hands of the volcano, and throughout the lip… to Manchuria. There we see Chinese tourists waving again at us. This is also the spot the place Kim Il-sung (Dear Chief) and his son Kim Jong-il (Great Chief) stood, with backs to the caldera, looking commandingly on the camera, offering up enlightenment and steerage. The image is recreated in vivid posters all around the nation, so it is a delight to be right here, like visiting the setting of an epic film.
There is a gondola that carries visitors right down to Lake Chonji, Heaven Lake, alongside a steep stairway. It is 5 Euro each for the journey, however I’m tempted by the exercise, and 40 minutes later meet the group by the frigid water. When Kim Jong-il died, it is claimed the ice on the lake cracked “so loud, it appeared to shake the Heavens and the Earth.”
We take some pictures, walk the verge of the lake, and then ready for the gondola experience again the rim. But the cables aren’t moving. The facility has gone off, and nothing strikes, even us. The prospect of climbing up is too grim for many in our group, together with one lady who has shrapnel in her leg from a recent visit to Syria. So, as tempers and temperatures rise, and that i consider what it might take to hold somebody on my again, the power lurches again on, and the gondolas open their doors for the experience to heaven.
The afternoon presents a private shock… we drive to The key Camp, the place Kim Jong-il, our guides inform us, was born in Japanese-occupied Korea on February 16, 1942. His start was foretold by a swallow, and heralded by the looks of a double rainbow across the sky over the mountain, and a new star within the heavens. The easy log cabin (with roebuck deer hooves as door handles) of this auspicious delivery stands close to a stream referred to as Sobek, spilling from its eponymous mountain. It turns out Sobek means “small mountain” (compared to Paektu).
Sobek is the identify of the adventure travel company I founded fairly a couple of years ago, nevertheless it was christened after the crocodile god of the Nile, not a waterway named for a mini-me mountain. Nonetheless, our hosts are excited with the coincidence; I’m honored simply the same. We take the night at the cavernous Baegaebong Resort, which could be the set for The Shinning, though we’re the one visitors. Nearby are the huge and scenic Rimyongsu Falls, spouting gemlike from a basaltic cliff, and there’s a ski slope next door. However this is fall, so the assumption is we’re off season, or tourism hasn’t lived up to expectations yet.
The following day is triumphal, the morning monumental as the sky. We visit the Revolutionary Regional Museum, fronted by ectype Siberian tigers, which still roam these mountains, and are conventional symbols of a unified Korea. Inside, the shows rejoice the North Korean victories over Japan and America, including a video of such shown on Toshiba monitor using Home windows XP.
Then off to the Samjiyon Grand Monument, that includes a giant bronze statue of a young, stiff-backed Kim Il-sung in navy regimentals, flanked by squads of oversized troopers, again-dropped by Samji Lake, dotted like snowflakes with egrets. Revolutionary music performs from discreetly placed speakers. I’m urged to purchase a bouquet of flowers to lay at the bottom, and then we all line up, sans hats, and make a respectful bow. Images are allowed, but solely of the whole statue from the front, not elements or backsides.
After lunch (the food is at all times hearty, plentiful, and includes meat of some type, all the time kimchi, soup, rice, potatoes and beer, however never canine, which is a summer time dish), we make a forty-minute charter flight to the Orang airport, not removed from the border with Russia, touchdown next to a line of MiG-21s. From there we drive three hours to Mount Chilbo, “Seven Treasures,” a nationwide park, and applicant for UNESCO World Heritage status. Alongside the way we pass tobacco and corn fields, cabbage patches, trips of goats, and strains of oxcarts carrying goods someplace. We first cease beneath a 200-year-old chestnut tree at the Kaesimsa Buddhist temple (“America bombed the churches and Buddhist temples,” Mr. Lee tells us, “however they missed this one.”). It was built in 826, and serves immediately as a repository for vital Buddhist sculptures, paintings, and scriptures. The monk has us collect within the temple, below photos of flying apsaras, where he taps a gourd and chants. He says he prays for our good well being and happiness, and that we will contribute to the peace of the world. Then he suggests we contribute to the donation jar.
It is a short hike to Interior Chilbo, an astonishing vista of wind and water sculpted turrets, buttes, mesas, masts, cathedrals and temples, a stunning combination of Yosemite, Bryce and Zion National Parks. Mr. Lee, in a North Face jacket and Prospect working shoes, plucks some pine mushrooms off the trail, and shares them with the group, saying these are delicacies in Japan, sometimes promoting for $a hundred a stem.
After a few short hikes, we bus into a box canyon, and test into the closest thing North Korea has to an eco-lodge, the Outer Chilbo Lodge. The lodging are spartan (plastic buckets filled with washing water exterior the doorways), but the setting–high cliffs on three sides, wooded grounds, a transparent singing creek — is something apropos to an Aman Resort, and should yet someday be.
The day next, as the sunshine struggles into the canyons, we hike to the Sungson Pavilion, a excessive platform that affords 360 degree views of Outer Chilbo, grand vistas of the serrated mountains and sheer cliffs that encase the park. We can see our eco-lodge from right here, which has a miniature look, like something carved by hand and set down out of scale at the base of the mountains. The vantage collapses perspective, creating an illusion of each proximity and depth, as though the hospitality under could be reached in a moment, or not in any respect.
After which we unwind the highlands, and trundle to Sea Chilbo, a final sigh of igneous rock that decants into the East Sea of Korea (Sea of Japan on most Western maps). The coastal village by means of which we move is dripping with squid, hanging like ornaments kind rooftops, clothes strains, and every exposed surface of homes that look as if they grew out of the ground. The permeating perfume is eau de cephalopod. Previous the electronic fences (to keen potential invaders out), on a wide beach, a long white table cloth is spread, and we settle all the way down to a picnic feast of fresh calamari, crab, yellow corvina, anchovies, seaweed, and beer, just before a bruise of clouds fills the space between earth and sky, and the rain sets in.
The dirt street to Chongjin is lined with magnolias (in the north of North Korea we experience almost no pavement), and a richness of no billboards or advertising of any kind. We cross a whole lot of troopers, part of 1,000,000 man military, in olive drab striding the highway; tractors that appear to be Mater from the Cars films; and smoke-billowing trucks, which have furnaces on the flatbeds where wood is fed for fuel. At dusk the countryside turns into subdued; shadows soften the hillsides, and there’s a blending of strains and folds. It’s darkish as we wheel into the steel and shipbuilding city, generously lit with streaks of neon (Hong Kong without the manufacturers). We stop on the Fisherman’s Membership, which is playing a video of launching rockets and enthusiastically clapping crowds as we order up Lithuanian vodka and something called “Eternal Youth Liquor,” which has a viper curled up inside the bottle, like a monster tequila worm.
We stagger into the Chongjin Resort, previous a pair of Kenwood audio system playing a stringed version of “Age of Aquarius,” stumble up the stairs beneath a poster of “The Immortal Flower, Kimjongilia,” a hybrid pink begonia designed to bloom yearly on Kim Jong-il’s birthday, and into rooms where the bathtubs are considerately pre-full of water to make use of to flush the non-flushing Toto toilets.
Motivational marshal music cracks the day. We won’t leave the lodge compound (some power-stroll the driveway for exercise, trying like friends at the Hanoi Hilton), however several of us gather on the gate and watch the beginnings of the day. The street is being swept, of us are walking and biking to work in their shiny artificial suits, children are being hustled to school, and a woman in a balcony across the best way is videotaping us as we photograph her.
North Korea’s bought talent. The highlight of the day is a visit to a main college, the place a troupe of purple lip-sticked, costumed children between ages 4 and 6 sing, dance and play instruments as though maestros. They play guitars, drums, a Casio organ, and a gayageum, the traditional Korean zither-like string instrument, with one excellent student plucking as though Ravi Shankar.
With the lengthy tapers of afternoon gentle we’re back in Pyongyang, and on the solution to the lodge pass the primary billboard we have seen, featuring The Peace Car, a handsome SUV the result of a joint-enterprise between Pyonghwa Motors of Seoul, a company owned by the late Solar Myung Moon’s Unification Church, and a North Korean government-owned company that additionally works on nuclear procurement. A number of of the slick automobiles are lined up in the resort parking lot, alongside Mercedes, BMWs and the occasional Volga.
Within the sweet liquid light of morning, after a breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast, potato chips and on the spot coffee, noshed to the tune of “These Have been the days, My Pal,” (it is originally a Russian music, referred to as “Dorogoi dlinnoyu”) we got down to tour Pyongyang, a city that could possibly be called Edifice Rex, for its complex of outsized compensation monuments. We take the elevate (5 Euros each) up the 560-foot tall Juche Tower, named for Kim Il-sung’s blended philosophy of self-reliance, nationalism, and Marxism-Leninism. We wander the bottom of a 98-foot-high statue of the holy trinity — a man with a hammer, one with a sickle, and one with a writing brush (a “working intellectual”). We parade via town’s largest public space, Kim Il-sung Sq.akin to Red Sq. or Tiananmen, that includes large portraits of President Kim Il-sung, in addition to Marx and Lenin. We bow once more and place flowers at one other giant bronze statue of the good Leader, president for life even in death. We pay homage to the Tower to Eternal Life, with its stone inscription: “The nice Chief, Comrade Kim Il-sung, Will All the time Be With Us.” We admire large statues in front of the Artwork Museum of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il blazing some battlefield on horseback, and two weddings taking place near the hooves. And we move scores of spectacular, oversized buildings, from the library to museums to the infamous 105-story, pyramid-shaped Ryugyong Resort, the dominant skyline feature, unfinished more than 20 years after building started (it appears, from some angles, to list a bit, just like the Tower of Pisa).
The metro, deepest on this planet, seems designed to withstand a nuclear attack. If it have been much deeper it might come out within the South Atlantic Ocean close to Argentina, its antipode. The stations are named after themes and traits from the revolution, and we take a five cease run from Glory Station (festooned with chandelier lights that appear like celebratory fireworks) to Triumph Station, lined with socialist-realist mosaics and murals.
And we finish the day with a step down to the Taedong River and onto the USS Pueblo, or because the North Koreans say with out variation, “the armed American spy ship, Pueblo.” It’s a rusty bucket at this point, forty three years after the incident, and the guides, in navy togs, present us the crypto room packed with teletypes and historic communications gear, the .50-caliber machine gun on the bow, the bullet holes from the North Korean sub chaser, and the spot where a US sailor was hit and died. We watch a short video featuring Lyndon Johnson alternatively threatening and claiming the ship a fishing vessel (not true), and then his apology, which allowed the discharge of the eighty two crew members exactly 11 months after they had been captured.
The final day of the journey we head south, to the DMZ, the 2.5-mile-broad swath close to the 38th parallel that separates North and South Korea, a border so tense it might squeeze the breath out of stones. The paved road is vast and flat, seeming to stretch the size of the world. It’s huge enough to land an aircraft in an emergency. And scattered every few miles are ‘tank traps,” concrete pillars that may be pushed over to ensnare an armored automobile heading north. We move via several army checkpoints alongside the best way, however never with incident.
As soon as on the DMZ we’re ushered into Panmunjom, the Joint Safety Space the place the armistice was signed July 27, 1953, ending a struggle in which nearly 900,000 troopers died (together with 37,000 People) — and more than two million civilians have been killed or wounded.
“We have been victorious,” the guide, who wears three stars on his shoulder, shares, and provides: “We’ve got very highly effective weapons. Though you in America are very far away, you are not safe… however do not be nervous.”
Then he factors out a show case with an ax and images of an incident in 1976 when two American soldiers tried to cut down an obstructing tree on the flawed side of the line, and had been dispatched by the North Koreans.
We step single file by means of a number of gates, and our information points out a flagpole 52 tales high, heaving a 600-pound pink, white, and blue North Korean flag; past is the South Korean model, not practically as excessive. Birds and torn clouds and cigarette smoke cross between the 2, and little else.
At the white dividing line, reducing by the middle of three blue negotiation huts, we will look across the barbed wire to our doppelgangers, vacationers snapping footage of us snapping pictures of them. We’re not allowed to shout, but I make a small wave, and my mirror picture waves again.
On the way in which back we stop on the Royal Tomb of King Kongmin, a 14th-century mausoleum with twin burial mounds, wanting like large stone gumdrops, surrounded by statues of grinning animals from the Chinese zodiac. Inside are the remains of Kongmin, thirty first king of the Koryo Dynasty (918-1392), and his wife, the Mongolian princess Queen Noguk.
Miss Lee, exquisite in excessive heels and frilly blouse, darkish eyes quiet as a pond, points to a mountain across from the tomb, and says it known as “Oh My God.” She then tells the story in regards to the place. When Kongmin’s spouse died, he hired geomancers to search out the proper spot for her tomb. Upset when everyone failed, he ordered that the subsequent to attempt can be given something desired with success; with failure, he would be killed instantly. When one younger geomancer told him to evaluate a spot within the mountains, Kongmin instructed advisors that if he waved his handkerchief they need to execute the geomancer.
Kongmin climbed up to review the positioning. Upon reaching the top, exhausted and sweaty, he dabbed his brow together with his handkerchief, while pronouncing the place perfect. When he found that the geomancer had been executed because of his mistaken handkerchief wave, he exclaimed “Oh, my God!”
Before heading again to Pyongyang our guides take us procuring at a souvenir stop in Kaesong, North Korea’s southernmost city, and the historic capital of Koryo, the primary unified state on the Korean Peninsula.
Outside we’re greeted by young girls in shiny traditional tent-formed dresses. The glass door sports activities a “DHL Service Out there” sign, and inside is a cornucopia of temptations, from statuary to stamps, oil paintings to jade to silks to pottery, to stacks of books by The nice Leader and Dear Leader, to ginseng to chilly Coca Cola. I can’t resist a sequence of dinner placemats of North Koreans bayonetting People with the saying “Let’s kill the U.S. Imperialists.”
Our guides throughout have been heat, welcoming, gracious, informative, humorous and pleasant.
On the final night time, sharing a beer at the foyer bar, when asked, they insist there isn’t a prostitution in North Korea, no use of unlawful medication, no homosexuality, no homeless, no illiteracy, and no litter. Every thing is clear. There’s common health care and training. It’s a perfect society, flawless as a brand new coin. And it is the same jewel field presented once i visited the People’s Republic of China underneath Mao Tse-tung in 1976.