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One enthusiast is designer par excellence Nigel Cabourn, who describes himself as “an outwear specialist drawing on navy history”. His collaboration this season with Peak Performance – a primary for the Swedish ski model in its 30-year historical past – is Cabourn’s maiden foray into black, and amongst his usual display of camouflage and khaki designs, these items are what stood out. The roomy, thigh-length stable-black Snow Patrol sheepskin jacket (£1,seven-hundred) was impressed by the white shearling worn by the Swedish Snow Patrols and, with its generous fleece collar, large canvas map pockets and big arrowhead zip, it’s probably the most putting coats of the season. The black Snow Smock (£500), in a waterproof cotton/polyamide Japanese fabric, has military-model front pockets and, with its taped seams, waxed cords and leather-based hood stoppers, is good for off-piste city manoeuvres.
Indeed, the intersection of high-efficiency skiwear and city cool is what many of this season’s black action jackets Offizieller are about. One of many strongest examples comes from Stone Island, a brand based on action-impressed design and fabric-know-how exploration. Its trench (£695) in black David TC – a signature polyamide compound fabric that appears like a cross between chilled putty and malleable efficiency leather – has an asymmetric storm flap and throat tab and flush epaulettes.
The trench coat was one in every of the primary modern efficiency technical navy garments to grow to be a civilian basic. Milanese brand Sealup’s Black Beauty bike trench (£950) is a short 1960s-impressed take in cotton gabardine with a curved raglan sleeve and water- and windproof “felled” seaming. The belt, cuff straps and throat tab all glisten with steel eyelets that work nicely towards the black. There’s more bike trench action from Barbour, whose new model of the Worldwide A7 (£279), in a lightweight 6oz beeswax cotton, features field-pleated bellows-model pockets. The Weir wax jacket (£279), also new, makes use of various waxes to realize a extra matte floor, however retains that familiar Barbour feel (and inimitable scent). Mackintosh, meanwhile, has used all-black rubberised cotton for an elongated double-breasted trench (£985) with minimal features: simply storm flaps and a throat tab.
My own private black urban-action fall-again has long been my vintage CP Company goggle-hood Mille Miglia jacket, teamed with black tracksuit bottoms, black vest and black working shoes. The black fishtail parka (£395) from the brand’s present collection has a shell of Lycra over a membrane bonded to an inside polar fleece, leading to a fabric that is both weather-resistant and amazingly comfortable and heat. CP’s nifty little Pro-Tek quick jacket (£325), in a excessive-performance stretch polyester jersey, is water repellent, packs down minutely and is as simple to wear as a sweatshirt.
I’m keen too on the brand new black version of Nanamica’s classic M-51 parka (€770), whose exceptionally light Gore-Tex membrane is impervious to rain and in addition packs right down, and on its low-key black moleskin coat (€780) with a special Kodenshi down lining. High-efficiency Gore-Tex can also be key to the great-wanting GTX Mountain parka (£680) from Woolrich based on a 1970s design, with anti-rain zip and duck-down/feather fill. Its GTX stone island bottoms Mountain jacket (£640) with patch and welt pockets and the same fill is a winner too. A black hybrid subject jacket from Norwegian Rain (£770) in matte waterproof recycled polyester reworks the traditional military 4-pocket design by extending it down just like the tails of a protracted overshirt, whereas the CPH jacket (£700), made in the identical polyester, has one thing of a martial-arts armour look about it, with ribbed cuff part and hid zip pockets.
In the case of Collide – a collaboration between Moncler and the artist/designer Greg Lauren, identified for his highly distressed fabrics and hybrid garment designs – two different kinds are melded diagonally: for example, within the Bady jacket (£2,465), a typical Moncler down puffa fuses with a closely distressed cotton-drill military parka. And at Maison Margiela, a black techno-poly cotton blouson (£1,360) features a number of jetted pocket details and cinching with a spray-painted rope-gathered waist – a nod to the maison’s inventive heritage – whereas the ultra-trendy fabric keeps it convincingly action ready.