Stone Island Eyes America
MILAN, Italy — When Demna Gvasalia put oversized ski parkas on the runway at Balenciaga, some traced the moment again to the influence of Italian sportswear label Stone Island, one among the primary to blur the boundaries between technical wear, streetwear and excessive-fashion. Certainly, from its inception, Stone Island aligned itself with a brand new mode of dressing that defied straightforward categorisation. “The new generation of youngsters — in Italy, they have been known as the Paninari — was much less politically involved than mine, but more focused on dressing,” says Carlo Rivetti, Stone Island’s president and inventive director, who founded the label in 1982 with designer Massimo Osti. “Their shirt could be by Burlington, the sweatshirt by Best Firm and the jacket by Moncler. They usually shortly embraced Stone Island.” Significantly standard were the label’s garment-dyed utilitarian jackets, which took inspiration from navy uniforms and workwear.
“Stone Island was a company that was born by accident,” recalls Rivetti, referring to Osti’s early experiments with the resin-coated canvas used for navy tarps from which the designer made Stone Island’s first jackets. “We had no enterprise strategy and we had no branding strategy,” he continues. What Rivetti did have, nevertheless, was the help of his family’s firm, Gruppo GFT, one of the world’s largest apparel manufacturers, which produced and distributed clothes for Italian brands like Armani, Valentino and Ungaro. The company got behind the fledging Stone Island and it offered fast. “GFT’s sportswear division was doing about 33 billion lira, mainly in Italy and Germany, when Stone Island was born,” says Rivetti. By the second half of the 1980s, Gruppo GFT’s sportswear division was producing about 50 billion lira in gross sales, with over half of its income coming from Stone Island, in line with the corporate. “There was no real men’s style then. And Stone Island hit upon the youth movements that needed to tell apart themselves — the Paninari in Italy and the Mod’s revival and terrace tradition in the UK,” explains Rivetti.
Raso Gommato Black Cowl, Stone Island 1988 collection | Source: Stone Island
Indeed, in England, Stone Island was embraced by a breed of rowdy soccer fans related to the rise of “casual” or “terrace” culture, a reference to the standard standing areas of sports stadiums. At first, hardcore English soccer fans purchased Stone Island jackets when following their club to Italy as a technique of showing that their aspect was sturdy sufficient to play internationally. “It resonated with younger customers because it was totally different. It was practical, saved you heat and dry at the stadium and had a recognisable detachable brand on the left arm,” says Rivetti, referring to the military-impressed insignia which seems on virtually all of the company’s garments. “We preferred the thought of insignia, as a result of it carried instant that means.”
The insignia was additionally a reference to the army-grade research and growth embraced by Osti. “It’s always been on the forefront of apparel innovation and technology, in addition to carving out its personal style subculture and a powerful heritage,” explains Alastair McKimm, vogue director of i-D. Certainly, Osti poured time and sources into creating new fabrics, modifying current ones and appropriating the sort of technical supplies not normally used for clothes.
When Manchester United star Eric Cantona began sporting a Stone Island jacket throughout publish-match interviews, he set off a wave of emulation amongst soccer followers in England and throughout Europe. “England was a key level for us, because it began the internationalisation of the brand,” recalls Rivetti. “England influenced Holland and the remainder of northern Europe at the top of the 1980s. Afterward got here Japan and, later, Korea.” Europe remains to be the biggest market for Stone Island, accounting for 80 p.c of sales, adopted by Asia.
Now, the model is making a major push into North America, the place it is relatively unknown and significantly underpenetrated. In 2015, Stone Island generated €87 million ($97 million) in world gross sales revenue, a ten p.c increase on 2014. But North America, with solely 44 of Stone Island’s 1,200 stockists, accounted for a mere 5 p.c of global sales. After all, Stone Island’s hyperlink to European football tradition doesn’t translate within the US. But the label has obtained a lift from rappers like Drake and Travis Scott, who’ve included Stone Island into their wardrobes. In 2015, the number of periods on Stone Island’s US webpage grew fifty one percent over the yr before, whereas new users elevated by 37 percent, an indicator of growing client consciousness, based on the company.
Rivetti sees opportunity and hopes that rising interest in luxurious streetwear, together with Stone Island’s distinctive technical prowess, will assist to drive sales. (Osti left Stone Island in 1994, however was changed by Paul Harvey, who studied textile design at London’s Central Saint Martins and is equally enthralled with technical fabrication, having experimented with everything from reflective fabric to thermo-sensitive jersey which modifications colour with fluctuations in temperature. Harvey left in 2008 and Stone Island is now designed by a crew under Rivetti’s direction.)
Heat reactive trench coat, Supreme/Stone Island Spring/Summer season 2016 | Source: Courtesy
Stone Island has additionally earned strong stamps of approval from Nike (the label partnered with the worldwide sportswear giant to provide a version of its iconic Windrunner jacket rendered in Stone Island’s proprietary nylon metal fabric) and Supreme (a third capsule assortment with the model will drop later this week), which Rivetti hopes will help to drive larger consciousness and brand choice.
“We’ve blended our experience in design with the craft, technical material growth and dyeing that Stone Island is famous for. The ensuing NikeLab x Stone Island Windrunner represents a unique interpretation of our foremost apparel icon,” says Joe Serino, Nike’s vice president of apparel for NikeLab. “Stone Island is a unique operation; a really special constellation of people and infrastructure that cannot be replicated,” adds Errolson Hugh, designer of Acronym, who has collaborated with both Stone Island and Nike.
“If it wasn’t for Massimo Osti, I wouldn’t have change into a designer,” continues Aitor Throup, who has also designed for Stone Island. “As a teenager in Burnley I used to be obsessed with Stone Island. I owe lots to that brand. They confirmed me that dreams may become a actuality and that clothing doesn’t should be just clothing.”
Final month, Stone Island opened its first North America flagship in Los Angeles, which presently generates about $4,000 a day in gross sales, in line with the company. A new York retailer is set to open in Might. But there aren’t any plans for additional North America stores and Rivet says Stone Island will tap demand elsewhere within the region by way of e-commerce.
With out stress from traders, rare stone island the household-owned company is taking issues one step at a time. “There aren’t any target numbers for North America,” reveals Rivetti. “We let issues occur organically. What we want first is for the North American buyer to understand the brand’s ethos, which is about product design.”
Editor’s Note: This article was revised on 14 March 2016. A earlier model of this article misstated that Gruppo GFT was producing 33 billion lira in annual gross sales when Stone Island was launched. That figure refers to Gruppo GFT’s sportswear division.
Editor’s Word: This text was revised on sixteen March 2016. A previous model of this article said that Carlo Rivetti was Stone Island’s president. He’s president and creative director. A previous model of this article additionally acknowledged that Paul Harvey was Stone Island’s designer. Harvey left the company in 2008, and Stone Island is now designed by a workforce under Rivetti’s route.