Stone Island A/W ’15 Lookbook
Stone Island’s public image is characterized by a curious mix of title recognition and false impression. It’s not unusual for the unique, intended goal of a model and its merchandise to be overwhelmed by the cultural notion of it, however Stone Island have definitely suffered from this phenomenon greater than most. It’s probably truthful to say that most people, even those who’re acquainted with the Stone Island identify, are not aware of simply how influential Stone Island have been.
The Stone Island story should invariably detour through the murky world of soccer hooliganism, specifically, its English variant. Clearly, hooliganism has at all times been closely intertwined with youth tradition. Just as obviously, trend was an integral a part of this youth tradition. In the course of the late 1960s and early 1970s, the embryonic stage of trendy hooliganism, the individuals can be simply recognizable to each other, outsiders, and the forces of regulation and order out to thwart their activities. The dominant model was closely tied to the skinhead scene: heavy boots, bomber/flight jackets, and heads shorn down to a number one crop. Membership colors, often in the type of scarves were openly sported.
Naturally, the spectacle of very public violence in England’s stadiums turned an issue of governmental concern. The simply identifiable uniform of the hooligan was set for a stylistic shift. The informal was born.
The ‘casual’ motion was named for the designer sportswear and leisurewear favored by this new breed of hooligan. The emphasis on type took on a good larger role, and bordered on the obsessive. The early levels of casual trend were centered on designer sportswear and leisurewear labels. Adidas, Puma, Fila, Ellesse, Sergio Tacchini, and Lacoste were favorites. Just as importantly, there have been few, if any, figuring out membership colors in sight. The sensible effect of this was to make the contributors in violent disorder tougher to identify. Anyone might pick out an offended looking skinhead as a source of potential bother, someone dressed like an instructor at an elite tennis academy, less so.
While specific types changed, and sure appears and brands fell out of favor, the overall idea of ‘anonymous’ sportswear and leisurewear by no means went out of fashion. Fred Perry, Nike, Hackett, Burberry, and, most significantly for our functions, Stone Island turned fashionable during this evolutionary interval.
At the identical time, the English game was undergoing a basic shift in culture, as the put up-Hillsborough Taylor Report paved the way for massive, structural modernization. An inflow of huge cash from the Premier League rebranding raised ticket prices throughout the board. The terraces have been on their way out for good, and the hooligans with them. Obviously, reducing off entry to the stadiums didn’t eradicate hooliganism; it just made it much less visible. Violence and its individuals grew to become extra organized, and the informal ‘uniform’ became extra essential along with it, as a strategy to establish prepared combatants.
This turned a much bigger difficulty for Stone Island than most, if not all, of the other manufacturers and labels favored by the brand new breed hooligans. The trademarked rose compass logo is incessantly bootlegged on enamel badges proclaiming the id of 1 hooligan group or another. It might be a close race at any given time between Stone Island and British Rail over whose emblem has been ripped off extra instances.
Stone Island, as a newer high finish style label, carried much less title recognition than established manufacturers like Burberry and Aquascutum and a better barrier to entry than massive sportswear labels like Adidas, Puma, Fila, and Lacoste. For a lot of, soccer violence was the only context through which they had ever seen or heard of Stone Island.
As Nick Hornby deftly pointed out in ‘Fever Pitch,’ while discussing Milwall’s decades long picture downside, once a popularity for violence becomes hooked up to one thing, that thing becomes sought out by these actively seeking to commit more violence, creating a self perpetuating cycle. This is usually a troublesome situation to extract a model from. Burberry, for instance, was compelled to roughly abandon their iconic plaid as a result of it got here to be associated with city violence rather than country homes. To this present day, there are pubs, bars, and nightclubs in the UK that won’t allow anyone wearing Stone Island gear inside.
This could be unfortunate for anybody, but for Stone Island, this state of affairs borders on a downright injustice. Stone Island is the brainchild of Massimo Osti, a reputable vogue pioneer and genius. These usually are not phrases to be thrown around frivolously. They’re used to describe a man who started off his profession and not using a formal background in trend (originally, Osti worked as a graphic designer) and ended it as the acknowledged inventor of various manufacturing strategies that would be acquainted to anybody fascinated with trend. The record of Osti’s improvements reads like an unending, excessive-finish catalogue description: garment dying, brushed wool, waterproof linen and wool, reflective fabric, and coolmax, just to name a number of.
Greater than any one, particular breakthrough, what set Massimo Osti apart during his life and what continues to set Stone Island apart as we speak, is the experimental strategy to constructing garments. Considerably paradoxically, this drive for never ending innovation is rooted in a very conventional Italian ethic. The excessive costs of legacy Italian luxurious brands have been mirrored in the craftsmanship of the garment, the quality of the supplies, and a timeless sense of model. Shopping for something from labels like Gucci or Prada was an funding in something that, correctly cared for, would have a lifespan of many years. The same may very well be said of Stone Island. A traditional piece of leather luggage and modern outerwear with a phone and mp3 player wired into the garment do not share numerous outward similarities, however the standard and care put into the design and construction are the same.
This ethic is something largely lost in the contemporary marketplace. Conventional labels went from household ownership to half of a larger conglomerate, which, in turn, led to wider proliferation of merchandise, a lot of which was not produced according to past requirements. The introduction of so-referred to as “fast fashion” additional diluted the retail panorama. The tip result’s that identify recognition is commonly the one thing that survives within the consciousness of the typical buyer.
When the sense of what precisely went into the production of a garment is just not on the forefront of a possible customer’s mind, there may be sure to be sticker shock when confronted with the retail price of a actually mens stone island jackets top of the range piece. If a proper rationalization by no means comes, the concept of “a 5-hundred greenback sweatshirt” becomes a punch line.
Stone Island have never stopped their commitment to experimentation and innovation. Realizing the specifics of every garment is beside the purpose, and would, in all chance be a undertaking; Stone Island’s internal product write ups are like a technical guide. The thing to find out about Stone Island isn’t that their clothes look good, it’s that their clothes look good, explicitly, because they are doing issues that no one else is doing, even with one thing as deceptively easy as a crew neck sweatshirt.