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Stone Island Carlo Rivetti Interview

Throughout Milan’s famed Design Week, we stopped by Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition to talk with the brand’s owner on all the pieces from working with New York streetwear royalty to educating at the native Polytechnic College.

As one of the clothes industry’s leading innovators, Stone Island’s man at the helm, Carlo Rivetti, is aware of a thing or two about fabrics. Approaching the world of vogue with the mindset of an industrial designer, Stone Island has rightfully earned its place as streetwear’s technical leader over the course of 30-some-odd years. Stone Island even collaborated with Supreme not once, but twice over the past yr, cementing their place in the present style panorama.

Although we just lately dove into their massive archive and captured Mr. Rivetti in a recent Avenue Fashion, we’ve only just scratched the surface of the heralded Italian label. To seek out out extra, we sat down with Mr. Rivetti at Stone Island’s “Reflective Research” exhibition. Test it out under.

Can you please introduce your self to our readers
Hey, my title is Carlo Rivetti and I am the Inventive Director and President (exactly in that order) at Stone Island. (laughs)

Describe your day-to-day tasks.
I work with the design team. We work altogether each in Milano and in Ravarino the place we’ve got the manufacturing facility. Because I am the oldest with expertise, I try to offer route to the younger guys in the design workforce. The design staff is made up of four different individuals; so four totally different ages and four different nationalities. So I’m very involved to know the opinions and point of views of all of those individuals. It’s my job to attempt to put these ideas into a Stone Island atmosphere.

In your phrases, what’s Stone Island
Stone Island is something distinctive. If you’d like single pieces then every single piece in the collection has a meaning. We are not following the market – we try to do what we feel is fascinating. It’s a type of club between individuals who understand the product, which is not often comprehensible. You must be curious and perceive that an orange jacket isn’t all the time an orange jacket.

What makes one thing difficult to know with clothes
Instances have modified so much. People are extra superficial and don’t have much time to take a position. All the things becomes so quick, compared with the past. We’ve got to alter the way of speaking to individuals – you must develop into shortly comprehensible. You need to hit and surprise people so they are desirous about understanding the method and every thing.

Do you assume the way in which you attain folks has modified By social media, for example
Sure, for sure. Also as a result of we discuss lots on social media, we strive to point out how we do the garment. We have been very efficient in this as a result of we added a brand new age target. We at the moment are talking to youthful people and this to me might be the most important factor.

Do you attain out to youthful folks in a special approach The new customers, for instance The people who don’t necessarily know the history of Stone Island

Not essentially in a different means. I feel younger persons are very thinking about tales. Concerning the younger individuals in the Italian market during the last 10 years, they were very stored by marketed merchandise and now they are rather more thinking about actual products.

Previously you’ve referred to Stone Island as masculine. What’s your concept of masculinity
Masculinity is a man who walks in the road and doesn’t have a specific value. You see rather a lot of various individuals sporting Stone Island – I see lovely ladies wearing Stone Island and I think that essentially the most stunning women are those carrying men’s merchandise. I don’t actually have a target of masculinity. I just feel proud once i see somebody carrying my stuff. We don’t target our customer.

It seems you strategy the design of your product more in the best way of industrial design quite than vogue design

Totally appropriate. Actually, throughout Vogue Week we didn’t do a show or catwalk. We didn’t do something. We simply opened an area and we were there explaining the product. I feel rather more confident with industrial design than the style system.

Why did you decide to exhibit your reflective technology for Salone del Cellular
That is a decision that was taken by my wife – she can be part of the design group. She wanted to do that exhibition. In a word, it is a product of the mind of the design group. I by no means enter into any such resolution as a result of I’m all for doing product so with the sort of communication I leave it to my spouse, Sabina.

When you’re doing analysis on new fabrics and new strategies, are there every other industries that you are taking inspiration from

Loads of design teams from other sectors come into ours showrooms and obviously I am very all in favour of understanding Footwear it extra. We say this is expertise however this is only expertise in textile. You’ve gotten technology in other industries: cars, shoes. For instance, I noticed these sunglasses and then had to find out how they work. So we can see these technologies in numerous sectors and take from them and they will take from us. It’s a sort of exchange of experience. If you want to be innovative you may have to remain awake and alert to the world.

I see stunning ladies carrying Stone Island and I believe that probably the most beautiful women are the ones sporting men’s merchandise

Had been you referring to the Recon Jet sunglasses
Yes. Stunning design, superb advertising. So it’s this type of factor. How can I work with these individuals and the kinds of technologies they are utilizing Can I use such a technology in a garment I believe the thing with innovation is one thing you have to work on so I all the time tell my workforce, “don’t look again, at all times look in front. As a result of the future is in the future, not the previous.”

In a earlier interview you talked about that an enormous revolution for you guys happened in 2003 whenever you discovered tips on how to dye polyester at 130 degrees Celsius. Why was that such an important innovation

Because earlier than we might solely dye the pure fiber – there is a large quantity of fabric in fiber but after we additionally started to dye manmade fiber, we opened a completely new discipline of research – polyester, nylon, non-woven fabrics – so once more, we start from zero, with the experience of natural fiber and have a totally new area of expertise. I’m additionally attracted by the fact there are new fibers and how they will react to the dying. Additionally the dying is altering as a result of we’re working at a decrease temperature, new nano-materials – both in fabrics and in dye.

What about these form of hype technologies like 3D printing. Is that one thing that pursuits you
Sure, we have started researching. It’s excellent because we dwell in an interesting technological area. We have now just a few very small firms which can be very versatile so we are starting to work with them to see how we can fit this technique into the garment.

A colleague of mine wrote a chunk on future vogue applied sciences like self-healing fabric. Have you heard of this

Sure. I name these clever fibers or fabrics. They’ve a protracted history. I’ve never seen them applied but think they are going to be out there quickly. Anyway, we already speak about simple-care, anti-stain, that kind of thing. Can you believe I noticed the first anti-stain fabric in the early ’60s So it’s there however technology is all the time evolving. We already have self-urgent garments and this wash-and-put on stuff. In case you know about these things you can move with the improvements.

Are you continue to a Professor at the Polytechnic University
Yes, after all.

What do you train there
I’m instructing advertising and marketing – style marketing – and the course focuses on studying prototypes of garments. I exploit Stone Island for instance but attempt not to influence the students so much. Since eighty% or so are womenswear, we also have marriage ceremony products.

Is there a sure brand you always talk about close to advertising
I’ve lots of respect for Paul Smith. After which in fact I totally respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese as a result of they have a really improbable method to their job – they really do their art in a novel way. They don’t must be business – they grow to be industrial and can make their dream a reality.

Have you discovered something of specific notice via your students
Yes. I remember a couple of years ago there was a pupil who was finding out a garment for a chef – the thought was do a jacket that doesn’t odor. She found a filter in Japan that keeps the odor. However then you take the jacket and shake it out and the scent goes away. However of course, it’s a giant Japanese company and they don’t care a couple of scholar from Polytechnic. So I mentioned that Stone Island might have an interest and I was very interested. So as a kind of filter, I discovered a brand new materials, she makes a implausible garment and i get a new experience. You know, working with young folks, even within the university – it keeps you younger.

What about the most recent Supreme collaboration How did that come about
They approached us. At first I was not sure if we could work together however then I flew to New York and met the workforce. You realize, by no means put two guys with blue eyes in the same room. (laughs) They will kill one another or they’ll work very nicely together. Thankfully, we were the latter. James was happy, I used to be comfortable. I learned loads. At first it was not easy to grasp each other but now we’re working very effectively and I’m very satisfied with the end result. I think both entities were flexible to respect the DNA of every brand and to make something that was superb.

What did you be taught from working with them
I learned to be very precise. I realized not to cease until you obtain the right result. I discovered easy methods to launch a product on the web and understand the expectations of people working on paper, and perceive the best way we do the garment shouldn’t be so precise, so we have to slightly change how we do the garment in order to realize the perfection Supreme were expecting.

I totally respect Yohji Yamamoto and the Japanese as a result of they have a extremely fantastic approach to their job – they actually do their artwork in a unique way.

Early you were speaking about approaching clothing design in an industrial means. Are there every other products that you’d like to discover

No, simply clothing. I feel you need to do the job that you’ll be able to do.
There are plenty different technical manufacturers now who’re doing this “direct to consumer” model. Do you keep watch over these kinds of manufacturers

I at all times look to all the brands that are round. I think you possibly can always be taught from everybody – from active sport to skiing and browsing. I feel it began many years ago. I also look at the army. Once i travel the world, I attempt to see all of the different types of jackets that exist. Now the costumer can select what they want and use it throughout the board. So a technical jacket can go into a theatre and a motorcycle jacket can go on prime mens stone island body warmers of a mountain. It’s about how the consumer wants to make use of it.

Do you suppose that is trend-primarily based or does it reflect present lifestyles
I believe it’s extra of a development. It is something that individuals will continue to do, and in someway, we are helping this development because we’re doing garments that are performing extra and are more multipurpose.

Check out our visit to the brand’s archive here and see our latest Avenue Fashion with Mr. Rivetti here.

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