The History Of Stone Island
Being an Englishman within the streetwear scene, you discover that there’s a bit of a one-way cultural dialog happening. Everybody knows American avenue culture. Just about all the world wears Jordans and Supreme, listens to Kanye West and drops American slang. Streetwear was born in the USA, so the state of affairs is inevitable, really.
Not too long ago, though, British cultural exports have been gaining traction over within the States. Drake and Skepta are greatest mates now, Palace Skateboards is approaching Supreme ranges of hype and some of my New York counterparts have even began saying “ting” on Instagram.
The newest improvement in streetwear’s romance with British culture is Stone Island, a label that’s quickly selecting up steam over within the States. It could also be Italian in origin, however the brand, and its unmistakeable compass emblem, has been an inescapable a part of UK avenue style for many years.
Stone Island – or “Stoney” as it’s affectionately recognized – lately opened an LA flagship, and is in the third yr of what’s proving to be an especially widespread Supreme collaboration. It doesn’t hurt that rappers like Drake and Travis Scott are giving the brand’s iconic arm patch a ton of publicity to individuals who would normally by no means see it.
The rap scene has taken to the label in such a manner that A$AP Nast and Travis Scott even had a bit of on-line beef over it. Seeing American rappers argue over who found Stoney first is a cultural mindfuck of hilarious proportions – form of like the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales beefing over Biggie and Tupac.
Given the momentum that Stone Island is constructing across the Atlantic, we thought we’d take the opportunity to teach our American readers on the brand’s wealthy background, and its significance in UK fashion.
“Stone Island is steeped in historical past, culture and sensible design,” Ollie Evans of Too Hot Restricted instructed me. Ollie is a London-based mostly reseller of archive Stone Island gear, and has been dealing vintage items from the model for years. He first encountered Stoney manner again in 1999, when the Birmingham Metropolis Zulu firm (a agency being a crew of hardcore football followers) was wearing it to raves in Birmingham.
“Stone Island has had a cult following in Europe for the reason that very starting,” Ollie defined. “It was first adopted by the Paninaro youth in Italy in the ’80s – their style was very a lot inspired by ’50s Americana, but mixed with sporty Italian designer labels. It was around this period that British football followers, following their teams to European Cup games, began bringing back a few of these identical labels to wear on terraces within the UK, appropriating the Paninaro look and building their very own subculture round it.”
It’s inconceivable to speak about Stone Island with out mentioning terrace casuals, a subculture of diehard football supporters with a style for flashy designer labels that emerged within the UK in the ’80s. Somewhat than sporting their team’s colours like earlier generations of hooligans, casuals chose to keep away from attention from the police and rival companies by flaunting flashy designer labels instead.
“These manufacturers were initially very onerous to source and solely out there in Europe, so a culture of 1-upmanship emerged with guys making an attempt to outdo one another with rarer, dearer and extra revolutionary items. Stone Island fitted completely into this, with their boundary-pushing designs. The model is an integral part of what is named informal tradition.”
Stone Island suited the casual movement’s tastes completely – it’s costly, visually hanging and the brand’s arm patch permits fans to establish one another without drawing undesirable consideration. Stoney’s id is, whether the model likes it or not, inextricably tied to hooliganism, and you’ll discover that compass patch on terraces and soccer grounds in all places from Middlesborough to Moscow.
These days, though, the model has grown past simply casuals and may be present in powerful, internal-metropolis neighborhoods across the nation – particularly in London – and to many, the brand’s iconic arm patch is a uncooked expression of butch masculinity. The grime scene has taken to it in a giant way – which is probably how Drake found the brand, given his newfound fondness for the style and his close hyperlinks with Skepta and Boy Better Know.
Whereas the label shall be forever related (to an extent) with robust-guy hooligans and streetwise hood rats, at the end of the day Stone Island is about boundary-pushing technology and revolutionary fabrics. “It’s nearly a cliche to discuss fake stone island polo innovation in relation to Stone Island,” Ollie explained. “They are – and at all times have been – constantly pushing the boundaries of garment expertise, creating product that’s recent and that no one else would even think of. Stone Island have been producing reflective and heat-reactive garments because the ’80s, means earlier than anybody else.”
It’s simple to see how Stone Island’s excessive-tech, army-inspired design language resonates with the more macho, masculine end of the menswear market. “It’s a real boy’s model.” Ollie added. “It’s like, Wow, this jacket modifications shade! This one’s reflective! This one’s made from stainless steel! It’s a real tradition of one-upmanship and making an attempt to look better than your mates.”
Stone Island owes its placing aesthetic and dedication to innovation to its designer Massimo Osti, who founded the model in 1982, to run alongside his different brands CP Firm and Boneville. Osti left Stone Island in 1995 to found Massimo Osti Productions and Left Hand, earlier than passing away in 2005.
“Massimo Osti set the blueprint for Stone Island and his legacy still informs where it is right now. He’s the man who introduced us reflective jackets, shade-altering heat-reactive jackets, polyurethane-lined weather protective jackets, reversible jackets, twin-layer jackets with removable linings. These are all ideas that at the moment are commonplace, and i guarantee that each major trend house on the planet has some of his work of their archive someplace.”
In fact, Supreme’s ongoing collaboration with Stoney options many homages to Osti’s work. “I’m an enormous fan of Osti’s ’80s and early ’90s designs, so it’s incredible to see that work referenced once more in the Supreme collaborations,” Ollie continued. “The marina-model stripes, the heat-reactive jackets, the Tela Stella anorak (centerpiece of Supreme x Stone Island SS15) and the helicopter jacket with the goggles from their first collab are all Osti’s.”
It’s a really interesting time for each Stone Island and Supreme. The 2 brands have come a great distance from their roots, and find themselves treading unfamiliar ground. Stone Island is approaching a transatlantic viewers that has little or no knowledge of the brand’s history, innovation and cultural significance – just some co-signs from rappers and a collaboration with probably the most hyped streetwear brand on the planet.
Supreme, in distinction, is attracting an increasingly youthful audience that has much much less understanding of the brand’s historical past and irreverent, counter-cultural tendencies. Both Supreme and Stone Island face the same problem: easy methods to develop into new areas and appeal to a larger viewers, while maintaining their respective credibilities and histories intact.
Ollie’s project, Too Hot Restricted, stocks archival gems from Stone Island alongside items from other terrace informal favorites, like Polo Ralph Lauren, C.P. Company (Massimo Osti’s first label), Prada Sport (the Italian luxury house’s brief foray into sportswear), Iceberg and Burberry. Too Sizzling additionally provides a glimpse again in time by way of its in-house editorials, which serve as wistful tributes to the flashy, designer label gear that was all the rage in the UK within the ’90s and ’00s.