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Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and vogue designer most well-known as the founding father of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s products have been a mix of his own improvements and design ideas he received from learning army clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product improvements 5.1 4-course of printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.8 Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He grew to become a graphic designer and labored in the promoting business. His profession in the trend business began within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt assortment featuring placed prints. He was the primary to use new techniques just like the 4-colour process and silkscreen which are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt collection, he accepted the provide to design a complete Males’s collection and turned an fairness partner stone island polos sale in the corporate he would title ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Company’).
During this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a artistic philosophy solely primarily based on experimentation. The first innovation he would be answerable for in the clothes industry was garment dyeing, a process that completely revolutionized the field. It was primarily based upon the concept of different supplies in completed garments reacting in another way to the identical dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates fascinating tone-on-tone effects. This particular dyeing method grew to become typical for Osti’s C.P. Firm. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a brand new brand alongside the prevailing CP Company and CP Firm Child collections.
Ongoing analysis on finishing strategies and materials led to yet another clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The first assortment was made fully from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by stone washing. This new assortment was so successful that it sold out at each location within 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Company to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his staff devoted themselves to product development and communication methods for the company. In 1985, he became the editor of CP Magazine, an additional-large format catalog/magazine that was offered at newspaper stands. It featured photographs of each garment within the CP Firm collections and visualized the C.P. lifestyle completely. A circulation of forty,000 copies per assortment proved that this unusual promoting device was indeed efficient. It started a development that might later be adopted by many different firms within the industry.
1987 was an important yr in Osti’s profession. He invented and offered Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a totally new feel and look to the garments. In the identical 12 months Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. Immediately all mills use this process for processing woolen textiles, the same course of Osti invented in 1987.
The yr also noticed the birth of the color altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological analysis to create this new fabric which modified coloration by temperature variations. That very same year, his fixed commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invite to characterize the Italian clothes industry at an occasion commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his own 15th yr in the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held inside the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a brand new means of communication with the public by the CP Company sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The company also showed its support of the Rainforest Basis, the muse spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose function was to raise worldwide awareness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP store in New York’s historic Flatiron Building, plus the launch of one more iconic garment throughout the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an modern material, which was the fruit of technological analysis conducted in Japan. The material mixed waterproof fabric with a really thin layer of glass microspheres, which reflected even the weakest light sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new model was characterized by one other unique materials, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, could be used with uncooked edge stitching. The following yr, Osti founded Massimo Osti Production, an organization that may reap the advantages of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ value of formal and technical improvements. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti began a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a set of picture-defining garments.
Simply two years later in 1998, a new firm was founded to provide and distribute the OM Project brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothes would also be characterized by the use of modern fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant materials product of polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton component whereas its different element
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Magazine Defender – a canvas manufactured from polyester and carbon fibers whose highly resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “urban armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it highly resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti started the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a new line of technical pants called Equipment for Legs. Of the technical materials used in this collection, a particular mix of Kevlar stood out in particular; its increased softness and functionality made it appropriate to its application in garment manufacturing.
Amongst Osti’s last projects was the ICD line. Created in 2000 thanks to a collaboration with Levi’s, it provided a vast array of high performance technical outerwear. This assortment was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, because of an agreement with Philips, featured outwear garments which got here equipped with a mobile phone, mp3 player, and accompanying headphones and microphone which were all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first industrial instance of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on immediately through Ed Lehan. Also the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which includes 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment finishing corporations from all over the world.
Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-primarily based firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, one thing he had never executed earlier than. At the age of 25, Osti was in shut contact with the social and artistic movements of the time and profoundly conscious of the changes happening in society. At the time of his first forays into the world of style, Osti’s background in promoting led him to use his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed consequence, methods like silkscreen, placed prints, 4-process printing, photocopy, and many others. It was the first time anything like that was done in Italy. I remember that I had to silkscreen the primary T-shirts myself before convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I discovered that two different materials absorbed and reacted differently to the dye when dyed simultaneously, thereby creating interesting ‘tone-on-tone’ results.” This is the idea of garment dyeing, a course of that revolutionized your entire business on the time, each due to the unusual look it produced and due to the numerous decrease in prices it represented.
Major traits: each garment is dyed, instead of the materials they were made from. Interesting ‘tone-on-tone’ effects, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this particular course of, which was initially used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the process by research and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the trade.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, became very fashionable within the textile industry. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, allowing them to drape and fall differently. The special rubber coating not only enhanced their natural traits, but also grants increased performance, corresponding to resistance to water and allows them to remain adaptable to patterns.
Principal characteristics: traditional supplies seemed renewed and responded in a brand new technique to put on; also they grew to become more weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket fabricated from a revolutionary material that adjustments coloration with temperature variations on account of its special chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” can be highly waterproof and windproof.
Major traits: jacket modifications colour by temperature variation. *e.g, pink to grey)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first presented within the LEFT HAND collection and is made of pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a traditional technique, initially used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and glorious breath potential.
Essential characteristics: pure deerskin look, however hotter feel.
This materials was also used within the LEFT HAND assortment. Its foremost traits are complete resistance to water and put on and as much as 80% safety from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time in the F/W 1996 collection by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this mixture of wool and nylon jersey is put on-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-93)